Showing posts with label Hoysala. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hoysala. Show all posts

Hoysala Trails - Nuggihalli

After couple of trek and birding weekends I and Prem decided explore Hoysala trails. The last hoysala temple we visited was almost 8 months back(Hosaholau) and I was planning to cover lot many during th elast monsoon. This time first choice was Belavadi but we were not sure if we could make it in a day. For a change we were planning for trip on KSRTC instead of the car as there was always a scare of traffic jams on Hasan road and then we did not know how were the road conditions. So we decided to go to Nuggihalli which was supposed to be the closest Hoysala temple on Hassan route.

This time we made it a point to start as early possible and carry some food and Getorade to tackle the hunger problem(guess who? Prem is the most affected by hunger problem). We reached Majestic by 7:30 AM and managed to get a Rajahansa with comfortable seating than Suvarna Karnataka. It was a 3 hour ride to Chenna Raya Patna with a break at Bellur Cross. I and Prem were reading for a while and then chatting for a while about all the topics in the world and sleeping in between.

At C.R. Patna we found a bus to Tipatur and we got down at the Nuggihalli after half an hour drive through fields. I was surprised to see that the roads were fairly good condition compared to the roads at other places in Karnataka. A short walk from the bus stand through the narrow streets took us to the temple. Probably this was the largest of the places we visited so far in search of the Hoysala temples. It was auspicious day(Narasimha Jayanthi) at the temple and was being celebrated by the folks around the temple. Prem inquired if we could get a guide and we got one!

The floor was hot and the guide was running through the explanation. This time Prem did not ask many questions :) and guide also did not tell us any lengthy stories.( I guess both were feeling the heat ?) So we managed to finish of the tour quickly and headed to the other temple. By the time we reached, it was already locked and we could not see the deities. Standing on toes we managed to take some snaps and run back to the shades. We were thinking we will end up with huge boils. But thankfully that did not happen. When we came back to the first temple it was pooja time and after which we relished prasadam served.
Now started the pics session which took me around 45 mins and then it was time to go back. On the way back we had lunch at CR Patna Bus stand and some how managed to get seats in "Suvarna Karnataka"


How to go?

If you are going by car after couple of kms from Hirisave there is a diversion to Nuggehalli on the right. This is the shortest route from bangalore. On the deviation Karnataka tourism development board has put huge banner with directions.

If you are going by public transport go to Channarayapatna and then catch express buses going to Tiptur. There are plenty of buses available and it takes hardly 20 minutes by the express bus.

What to See ?
Nuggehalli has 2 temples Laxmi Narasimha and Sadashiva temple built during Hoysala period. Laxmi Narasimha temple is a trikoota temple with exquisite carvings on the outer walls. There are 3 deities with Sowmya Keshava in the middle and Venugopal and Laxmi Narasimha on either side. As per Grerard Foekema this is a new style temple with one strip of carving describing Krishna. The temple does not have a Hoysala Crest and has been extended after it was built. Like the temple in Hosaholalu one can see 24 forms of Vishnu depicted on outer walls. Many of the sculptures have the form of Vishnu depicted and sculptors name engraved on the lower side of the sculpture. Must see sculptures include the dancing Ganesh with 8 hands on the left side wall, dancing laxmi on the back side.

Sadashiva temple is close to the first temple but does not have carvings like Laxmi Narasimha temple. But this is fine example of Nagara style architecture. On the way one can also see the remains of the entrance to the city. There is also a guide available at the temple who gives explanation about the carvings and takes to other places.

When to go ?
One can go year around but during the summer months it might be tough to stand on the outer section of the temple as the ground will be heated like the charcoal.



Nuggihalli

Hoysala Trails - Hosaholalu

|1 comments

Laxmi Narayana temple at Hosaholalu Side view

After canceling multiple times, on 5th August again we planned to visit another Hoysala temple. This time plan was to cover Hosaholalu and if possible cover Somnathpura. I reached Prem's place around 8:00 AM and we started off in his car. At 8:55 AM we reached Kamath Lok ruchi(KL) for the breakfast.It was crowded and it took us nearly 45-50 mins to complete. Though there was buffet breakfast which can be had quite fast we did not opt for that as we wanted to have neer dosa. But to our surprise KL had changed the design, look and feel of neer dosa and was serving crisper and longer version of it but with same kind of chutney as earlier.
After briefly studying the maps and info downloaded from google we left to Mandya. Reached Mandya around 10:00 AM and started asking directions. Our first attempt was futile as one of the traffic police told us to go to sharavanabelagola or srirangpatna and then reach K.R. Pet. But then we took help from tempo guys to find out the best possible route. Just after the Mandya city on SH 17 we had to take right for MeluKote road to.
We stopped at Jakkanhalli(On right Cheluvaraya Swami temple as seen from Jakkanahalli). On the way there are quite few old styled jaggery manufacturing units. We decided to visit one of them on the way back, but we were hungry on the way back and did not think of anything other than food.
At Jakkanahlli we realized it was not as close as we had thought. We were thinking it will be around 25km from Mandya. As per the signboard at Jakkanahalli, K.R. Pet was 31km ahead. But it turned out to be 24km. Funny part was through out the road we came across milestones few meters apart but showing different readings that too a difference of 4km I guess. Dont know who was trying to fool whom. At one place there were three. But we could not drive fast as the priority goes to the sheep and cow being taken for grazing. After Melukote the road has patches of recently built to lot pot holes to under construction. Moreover there will be village cattle, so driving was slow and it took 1-1.5 hours to drive 24km. At one point we came across a goat feeding its 2 kids in the middle of the raod. From K.R. Pet we took Hosaholalu raod to reach the temple

This time though we found a better guide. But we could not utilise him as he was occupied with somebody else already. But he pointed us to sculputres and the we tried to relate to the Ramayana stories.

Vishnu depicted as Govardhana(left) and Vamana (Right)

This Puja is being carried out on a daily basis, so we were not supposed to take the photographs inside temple. Inside the temple cielings have carving and there are beutiful pillars. Idols carved on black stone are beutiful. We prayed at the temple and started our return journey.
We had to wait till Mandya to get a nice place to eat. We came out with many resolutions on how to plan the next trip better, like packing food etc. Got to wait till the next trip see the results. On the return journey it was raining at many places. We could drive at better pace on Melukote Mandya road as it was empty allthrough.We had lunch at Hotel Amaravathi on SH17 after the Mandya city and stopped at KL again to have refreshing sugar cane juice. Amaravathi just reminded of the locking the car with keys inside near the tea shop just opposite of Amaravathi.


Hoysala Trails - Hosaholalu
Aug 5, 2006 - 26 Photos





The Laxminarayana Temple
This temple has trikuta structure with deities being Laxmi Narayana(Main dieti), Laxmi Narasimha(Right Side) and Venu Gopala(Left side). Temple does not have Kalasa and Hoysala emblem (Sala fighting with lion) on top. The outer walls have 24 figures of Vishnua such as Keshava, Maddhava, Vamana .. Below the figures there are 6 strips with intricate carvings of Horses, Peacock etc. One of the strips has illustrates Ramayana.
Gerard Foekema classifies this as new style temple built during later era of the Hoysala's. New style temples have 6 strips of carvings running around the temple. Where as the old style have only 5 strips running. In the new style temples one of the strips contains the depiction from epics like Ramayana, Mahabharath. We could manage to figure out stories like Sugreeva meets Rama. Rama asks for help from Sugreev. But Sugreeva wants to check Rama's strength and asks him shoot 7 plam trees with one arrow. Sugreeva realizes Rama's strength. Vali and Sugreeva fight. Rama kills vali. All these and more stories from ramayana were depicted on a strip of height 12-15 cm running around the temple.


Info that can be of help ...
Getting There: Drive on Mysore Road, just after Mandya city take right on the MeluKote road. There is board giving directions to Melukote and sharavanabelagol just before the right. Once you take right there will be a railway crossing a few hundred meters ahead. From Mandya to Melukote it was 35 km. In between u will come across Jakkanahlli which is around 6km before Melukote. 4km from Jakkanahlli there will be a deviation to Melukote, this deviation is just after climbing 2-3 hair pin curves. Take the raod to K.R. Pet. Till Melukote the road is in good condition. After that its not good. On reaching K.R. Pet, drive towards Bus stand from there take the Hosaholalu road(The road is named like that). Jakkanahlli is around 6km from Melukote. Hosaholalu is around 2km from K.R. Pet, on the road first you will get a small lake and then there is a Anjaneya temple. Take the right just before the Anjaneya temple to reach the Laxmi Naryana temple. On the Melukote road there is also diversion for reaching Basaralu which also has Hoysala Temples
Facilties: After Mandya Jakkanahalli is the only place where one can buy some food like fruits, biscuits, water etc. Rest all are small villages.On the Hosaholalu road there is a petrol bunk. After Mandya this is the only Petrol Bunk we came across, though petrol is sold in bottles in some shops on the way.
On the way breakfast can be had at Kamat Lokruchi and if u can wait a few minutes more then at Maddur Tiffanys.

Hoysala Trails - Koramangala to Koravangala

|1 comments

The day started quite early. I gave a call to Prem at 6:20 to check if he has got up. By 7 o'clock I was on BMTC bus No. 171 to majestic. We reached KSRTC bus stand at 7:40 AM, and found a bus to Hassan and it started off at 7:40. Plan was to visit Koravangala, Mosale and Nuggehalli. Over a period one month I had done some googling on Hoysala temples. Hoysala kings who ruled a large part of Karnataka during --- had built around 350 architectural marvels. Out of that around 90 have been identified and around 30(?) are being maintained by archeological society of India. Belur and Halebid are the most visited of the Hoysala temples. I got a list of 15 places from index of the book by Gerrard Foekema. Also there was good amount information got from Hassan district web site.
I forgot to take a print out of my research compilation so we were left with only names of the three places. While Talking to the conductor we found that the Bus will reach Hassan at 11:45 if there is no traffic jam near Nelamangala. So we gave rethink on our plan and decided to visit Nuggehalli some other day, as it was 55 km from Hassan. We thought of visiting Mosale (8 km from Hassan) and Koravangala (12 km from Hassan). There was no significant traffic jam and around 10:00 am we reached Bellur Cross and had breakfast. The hotel had nothing except idli-vada and rice bath. For the hungry souls the idli-vada tasted very well. While having breakfast Prem realized that he has lost his mobile. Last three times we went on a trip we had lost something or other. It started with Som’s comb, then my mobile charger and now Prem’s mobile. Its started to drizzle around Chennarayapatna and it continued till we reached Hassan at 12:00 PM.
We asked a person from KSRTC about Mosale and Koravangala, the reply was which Mosale and Koravangala? There are so many ... He directed us to inquiry office. There we were told that the last bus to Mosale left at 11:30 AM and next bus is only at 4:00 PM. But there are lots of buses to very close to Koravangala. All the buses going to Arisekere stop near Koravangala. Our previous conductor helped us to find the bus and again when we were taking the tickets same question popped up which Koravangala. The conductor was trying to enjoy his job by cracking jokes and being enthused interacting with passengers. Wonder.. did he read "Fish", can author a similar book in Kannada.





Country side next to the temple

We got down at Koravangala and one of the co-passengers who got down at the same place showed as the way to the temple. To our surprise there was a big poster of the temple and just besides the bus stop. Prem was expecting a ruined temple in the dilapidated state got excited.


We walked down the curvy road for one and half kilometers through the serene countryside. The road was so narrow that only one omni can go at a time and we came across couple of them. The wind was blowing heavily and at one point Prem was walking sideways! On our left side we had fields till our eye range could see and on our right side a big lake, which was having, waves due to the heavy wind. There were plenty of common mynas and occasionally we saw egret and herons.
And then we saw the temple... with proper fencing and 2 boys who were coming from school fell down from their bicycle. We tendered help to lift the bicycles and guys were very happy. They just followed us and we came to the locked compound. One of the guys offered to help us by taking us to the so-called guard of the temple. We started following him and by the time we entered the hamlet the word was out "Photo thegiyor bandidare" And we had a bunch of 10 children coming behind us. Mr. Venkataramiah, "district tourist guide", accompanied us to the temple.



Children of Koravangala

As we entered the temple compound the kids were all ready to pose for us and there was competition to occupy the strategic points like the elephants back and the feet of big idols. Prem obliges and took some snaps of kids and they were overjoyed to see thier photos on the camera. Our guide started off with explaining the Hoysala history and the "Pratijna Kallu" which was the root for temple. As per he inscription on that stone document, the area was ruled by Cholas and Butiraja had a fight with cholas and he lost his 2 sons the battle but won the battle. Then ascented on the throne and took oath to build the temple. In the oath taking part Buchiraja and his wife are depicted and the next step they are worshipping Lor d Shiva.
Next he explained how Hoysalas were following Atharav Veda and how that is depicted in their temple architecture and the sculptures. Facing north was the beautiful idol of Marthanda Bairavi, which the king used to worship before the battles. There was small shrine of Biravi, which was locked; this had uniquely carved "Dwarapalakas" with very different ammunition. On the front side there was a Ganesha idol with six hands. Our guide explained the story behind birth of Ganesha for 20 minutes. I guess for a person who does not know much about India this would have been fascinating, Prem was all attention and I was just waiting when it will get over.

Because of Prem’s questions somehow the guide felt that Prem was interested in knowing multiple stories (“Siddantha” as per the guide) about the idols. And explained two different versions Indradumn’s story. Next to that was a food chain (power chain ?) with a stag being swallowed by python. Elephant was harassing python. A Lion was trying to kill the Elephant and Mythical animal of “Sharaba”(Indian version of the Chinese Dragon) trying to kill Lion. The “Sharaba” was getting hacked by another mythical character “Ganda Berunda”(A two headed powerful Bird, which also happens to be the royal sign of Mysore Maharajs and K.S.R.T.C) Overwhelmed by Prem’s attention our guide started seeing “Darwins evolution theory” being depicted there !


There was also beautiful depiction of Prahalad Charitha on the southern wall. Among other notable sculptures was the Varahi(Note this is female form of Varaha Avatar of Vishnu), Kodanda Rama (On the south side), Varaha Avatar (West side) , Krishna , Sarswathi (On North side). This temple also has the Hoysala emblem on the top of the temple.

Then we went inside the temple as it was getting late and also there was drizzle. All the ceilings were carved intricately. Inside there are idols of Sapta Matrika, Sarswathi and Surya. Surya and Sarswathi are carved with details and one could see even the nails in the fingers.

There is also Nandi which can be rotated. We could not visit other two temples, which were covered by plant growths. Our guide told us that during summers other two temples are also cleaned up. Buchishwara temple is maintained by the central government agencies where as other two temples are maintained by the state government agencies. Some of the texts say that other temples were built by King Buchi’s brothers. As per the Guide the temples were build tby the Chola kings.
We hurried left the place at 4:30 and had a late lunch in Hassan at 5:00 PM. We caught the 5:30 PM bus to Bangalore and were back in Bangalore by 9:45 PM.
Hoysala Trails - Koravangala
Oct 8, 2006 - 25 Photos